We know there’s more to hairdressing than most realise, and its easy to get mixed up with the differences between bleach and peroxide. That's why we’re here to provide a clear guide on these heroes in the hairdressing industry. Even the most experienced hair colourists need to read up on their scientific differences.
Let’s dive in…
What is Hair BLEACH?
One of the active ingredients in hair bleach is Hydrogen Peroxide. When exposed to water and oxygen, it causes oxygen molecules to be released. When applied to the hair, these oxygen molecules react with the melanin hair pigments (these are what gives hair a darker colour) causing the pigment to breakdown, causing the hair to lighten.
Bleaching the hair is a gradual process and, depending on various factors; natural hair colour, application time, strength of bleach; the end result colour will vary. When applied to black hair, the end result colour will initially be brown, and will gradually lift throughout the process time to red, orange, orange-yellow, yellow, and finally pale yellow.
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What is PEROXIDE?
Peroxide, or “Hydrogen Peroxide” is simply just the chemical component found in both bleach and developer to help lighten or change hair colour. This powerful agent works by oxidizing the pigment responsible for hair colour in the hair shaft.
Hydrogen Peroxide is the most commonly used peroxide, and is not only used in the hair industry. Its other common uses are as a disinfectant, a mild antiseptic used on skin, and teeth whitener.
In the haircare industry, it’s mixed with other chemicals, such as ammonia to form a hair bleach, or colour developer to lighten the natural colour, or activate the colour molecules in hair dyes.
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What is hair DEVELOPER?
The developer is the chemical used with the bleach to activate the colour molecules in the hair dye or to assist in the oxidation process of bleaching.
Most formulas of hair colours work with developer volumes of 10, 20, 30 and 40...
5 Volume:
This is probably the lesser used developer, but often is teamed with semi and demi permanent colour lines as it has a minimum effect on the hairs cuticle. Discover Neal & Wolf Demi-Permanent Colour:
10 Volume (3%):
Will slightly open the hairs cuticle, so is used for depositing colour without significant lifting of the hairs natural colour. This volume is suitable for toning or darkening and grey coverage with the Neal & Wolf Professional Peroxide.
20 Volume (6%):
Is likely the one used most in salons. It provides 1-2 levels of lift, so is the go-to developer for subtly lifting natural hair colour by 1-2 shades. 20 volume should not be used in glazes or for toning.
30 Volume (9%):
Lifts hair by 2-4 levels and is suitable for lightening natural hair colour. It is often used in more substantial colour changes but should never be used for basic deposit only colour as it will damage the cuticle for no reason. If used with bleach and foils, it will work fast, so could over-process. Its more ideal for open-air processing. It should never be placed under heat and should be monitored regularly.
40 Volume (12%):
Provides maximum lift and is used for significant lighting up to 4 levels. It is typically used with high-lift hair colour or bleach for dramatic colour changes. It can be used for open-air balayage but control the heat. It should not be used with bleach in foils.
It's always advisable to be careful with higher volume developers, as hair colourists, we must always consider the clients desired end result and integrity of their hair. It’s important to follow the instructions and carry out strand tests prior to the bleaching process. We’d also recommend using OLAPLEX throughout the colour process to help maintain the hairs health. Read our Olaplex Salon Kit Complete Guide for all the tips to ensure you get maximum results.
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