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"Tint doesn’t lift tint!" That’s what I was always told at college and in salon as a young hairdresser, it was one of those many old wives tales’ lines that many hairdressers will have used during a consultation at some point in their career, but is this true? Let’s explore this theory with Salon Promotions Head of Education, Laura Elliot.
What is Ammonia?
When we start to look at the science of hair colour and what goes into a tube of tint this becomes much clearer. In our Everything You Need To Know About Colour Blog, we break down some really imperative ingredients within any permanent colour and that is called Ammonia. One of the main functions of Ammonia is to lift hair colour. Different shades within a professional colour brand will contain different percentages of Ammonia depending on the levels of lift needed. For example, in Neal & Wolf Colour, 10.21 + 12% on natural hair will lift around 3 levels. When you compare this to their high lift tint in shade 12.11, mixed with the same level of peroxide, this will lift around 5 levels. So, why is this and what is the difference? It's purely the Ammonia percentage within those two colours and in simple terms, the more Ammonia, the more lift!
The Levels of Ammonia
If a professional colourist were to apply hair colour with a lower ammonia content from their shade chart over hair that already is pre-coloured, yes, they may not see any change. However, if we use a colour with a higher ammonia percentage, we will be able to get a better lift.
High lift tints are perfect for those clients who come to the hair salon wanting a colour change or to go slightly lighter. I use these in many colour sessions to create stunning hair colours, such as coppers, vibrant reds or creamy caramels from colours starting as dark as a depth of a 5. You can also add mix tones within your high lift for extra added tone.
What To Consider Before Choosing A High Lift Tint?
There are a few things to consider before lifting using high lift tints. Firstly, you need to consider the amount of build-up a client has on the hair. Why? A high lift tint used on natural hair will lift around 5 levels but a high lift used on previously coloured hair will only shift a colour around 2 levels. For example, if a client is currently a level 6 brunette and would like to be a level 7 copper, the high lift chosen would only need to lift that colour by 1 level. This will save so much time in a salon and means you can fit more clients into your diary making more money.
So Does Colour Lift Colour? YES!
It's purely the Ammonia percentage within the colours, if your colour contains ammonia, you will see levels of lift. The more ammonia, the more lift! But remember, the amount of build-up on the hair from previous colours will affect the level of lift possible.
For example, if a professional colourist applies hair colour with a low ammonia content over hair that is already pre-coloured, they may not see any change. However, if they use a colour with a higher ammonia percentage, they will be able to get a better lift.
Discover the world of Neal & Wolf Colour, everything the professional colourist needs and save up to 50% verses other leading colour brands; salonpromotions.co.uk/neal-wolf-colour
